Explore The Matte (Matte Neighborhood In Bern)

The Matte is the lowest quarter of Bern's old town, tucked into a bend of the Aare below the cliff on which the upper town stands. It is part of the old town that was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, but it feels different from the arcaded streets above. The Matte was historically the working-class district of the city, home to craftsmen, mill workers, boatmen and tanners who needed the water of the river, and its houses sit close to the Aare, sometimes with their foundations in the water. The name is from the old word for a meadow, and the area was long a flood plain.

The quarter is small and can be explored in an hour. It has a village-like atmosphere, with narrow lanes, low houses with steep roofs and window shutters, small squares and the sound of water everywhere. The river runs past in a narrow channel, with weirs that create a constant murmur, and canals once powered mills and workshops. Many of the houses are old, with stone ground floors and wooden upper storeys, and several have been converted into homes, studios and small businesses. A few cafés and restaurants offer outdoor seating, and the area has a creative community of artists and craftspeople that gives it a relaxed, alternative character.

The Matte had its own language. Locals developed a slang called Mattenenglisch, a mixture of Bernese German with words borrowed from other languages, which allowed the people of the quarter to talk without being understood by outsiders. It is now a historical curiosity, kept alive by enthusiasts, and some street signs and shop names still use it. The quarter was also known for flooding, since the river rose in spring and after storms, and flood marks on the walls show how high the water reached. Modern flood protection has reduced the risk.

You can reach the Matte in several ways. The most fun is the Mattelift, a public lift that descends from the Münsterplattform, the terrace beside the cathedral, to the lanes below, saving the climb on the steep stairs. There are also stairways and the street leading down from the Nydegg bridge, and the BärenPark is just along the river. From the Matte it is a short walk along the river to the Untertorbrücke and the Aare path, which lead to the Rosengarten and the Marzili.

The area is free to wander at any hour, and it suits walkers, photographers and anyone who prefers quiet corners to the main sights. It is best in the afternoon and early evening, when the light on the water is soft and the cafés are open, and quieter on weekday mornings. Comfortable shoes are important because the cobbles are uneven. Allow about an hour, and combine the walk with a visit to the BärenPark, the Zytglogge and the Minster. In spring and after heavy rain, keep an eye on river levels and avoid walking close to the water if it is high.